Liupanshui aka 六盘水

Also in Guizhou province, like Getu and Guiyang.

• Chinese name: 六盘水
• The Crag: link

Where To Stay

• In the village: wechat contact lizhong660, about 30 min drive from Dushan. Accepts foreigners. 130 a night.
• In Liupanshui City: Junyi Select, in Zhongshan district, Chinese name 骏怡精选酒店. Accepts foreigners, clean, good noodles for breakfast included. 200 a night. Phone number: 19184809995

Drivers and getting there

If you’re staying in the city, not the village, then it’s about 1 hour to the crags. Renting a car is slightly more convenient than hiring drivers, simply due to less waiting around. You have to be comfortable with a slight bit of scary roads, though. There are some unprotected cliffs on the way.

• Driver contacts: wechat wxid_7ebum52e9nqs22 — in the village
• Nice lady driver: 13329687889

Niubi Cave // 牛鼻洞

Massive cave just past Dushan village. There’s probably 80ish routes here, varying from slab, to crimpy face climbing, to totally inverted roof climbing.

Getting there: Use Apple maps or baidu maps, search for “牛鼻洞” or “Niubi Dong”. The dropoff point is right next to a public bathroom and a small corn liquor distillery. There’s a concrete path leading up the mountain.

Walk through the two houses on the concrete path on the way up the mountain. It should be a pretty straight path up the hill from there, go towards the gigantic cave. The approach is about a 20 minute walk.

Dushan Crag // 独山岩场

Smaller crag with lots of face climbing. Some loose rock. Some overhang routes, fun! Overall, fun, great views, great rock. A very chill vibe up there with some quality routes.

Getting there: The beginning of the approach is located alongside the road above dushan village. Have the driver drop you off here and start up the stairs. These stairs:

From there, it can be a bit tricky. Walk up the stairs and turn right, crossing through the corn field. Walk about five minutes in that direction, going upwards if there are any forks. When you come to a round masonry/stone water reservoir, turn left and go up the hill. Walk upwards and to the left from there, eventually coming up on the face. It’s about another 10 minutes from there. The total is about 20 minutes.