Hangboarding Tips Dave Mcleod

• Pull really really hard
• Hangboard 7-10 seconds, closer to 10
• Start with sets of 5-10 pull ups on jugs
• 5-10 mins warm up
• Find what works in terms of intensity

Grip type

• 4 fingers open hand
• Half crimp
• Drop little finger, 3 finger drag/open hand
• 3-5 sets of each grip type

Creating a workout

• Don’t do maximal strength exercise when you can’t do the same intensity as the start
• Rest 45 seconds - 1 minute between each hang, based on reproducing the same effort

How to schedule it into your climbing

• be flexible, do it when the weather is poor, climb when the weather is good.
• Do them when you’re relatively rested, not after hard training session.
• Listen to your body for frequency

Avoid Injury

• Have good form
• straight arm with shoulders engaged, or slight bend in elbows.
• don’t jump into a hang, gradually load fingers, do a slight pull up into the hang.
• Don’t swing and be controlled.
• Chalk up a bunch, keep your board in a cool place.