Hangboarding Tips Dave Mcleod

  • Pull really really hard
  • Hangboard 7-10 seconds, closer to 10
  • Start with sets of 5-10 pull ups on jugs
  • 5-10 mins warm up
  • Find what works in terms of intensity

Grip type

  • 4 fingers open hand
  • Half crimp
  • Drop little finger, 3 finger drag/open hand
  • 3-5 sets of each grip type

Creating a workout

  • Don’t do maximal strength exercise when you can’t do the same intensity as the start
  • Rest 45 seconds - 1 minute between each hang, based on reproducing the same effort

How to schedule it into your climbing

  • be flexible, do it when the weather is poor, climb when the weather is good.
  • Do them when you’re relatively rested, not after hard training session.
  • Listen to your body for frequency

Avoid Injury

  • Have good form
  • straight arm with shoulders engaged, or slight bend in elbows.
  • don’t jump into a hang, gradually load fingers, do a slight pull up into the hang.
  • Don’t swing and be controlled.
  • Chalk up a bunch, keep your board in a cool place.
Last modified: December 21, 2021
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