Last modified: December 21, 2021
Hangboarding Tips Dave Mcleod
- Pull really really hard
- Hangboard 7-10 seconds, closer to 10
- Start with sets of 5-10 pull ups on jugs
- 5-10 mins warm up
- Find what works in terms of intensity
- 4 fingers open hand
- Half crimp
- Drop little finger, 3 finger drag/open hand
- 3-5 sets of each grip type
Creating a workout
- Don’t do maximal strength exercise when you can’t do the same intensity as the start
- Rest 45 seconds - 1 minute between each hang, based on reproducing the same effort
How to schedule it into your climbing
- be flexible, do it when the weather is poor, climb when the weather is good.
- Do them when you’re relatively rested, not after hard training session.
- Listen to your body for frequency
- Have good form
- straight arm with shoulders engaged, or slight bend in elbows.
- don’t jump into a hang, gradually load fingers, do a slight pull up into the hang.
- Don’t swing and be controlled.
- Chalk up a bunch, keep your board in a cool place.